THE HEART OF ANCIENT ATHENS was centred around the dome of the Akropolis, the most important ancient monument in the Western world, with sacred temples atop the rock and the town built on its undulating flanks. Crowned by the Parthenon, Akropolis stands sentinel over Athens, visible almost eveywhere within the city of Athena. Today this district is still replete with Greek and Roman remains, though these are interspersed with later roads and buildings, a fascinating mixture of Neo Classical mansions and terraced cottages. This area, known as Plaka, is now perhaps the most charming, joyful and colourful in Athens and acts as a strong magnet to many visitors from around the world.