Fish Athens' proximity to the sea means that fresh fish (psari) is readily available and throughout Attica and the Peloponnese you'll find excellent seafood restaurants. The day's catch is displayed on ice outside a taverna and you will be asked to make your choice, which will be weighed before cooking (ask the price if you are on a budget as seafood is always a relatively expensive option). If the seafood is frozen this will always be stated on the menu. Seafood is usually grilled (broiled) served with fresh lemon but ask if you want it cooked a different way and most tavernas will accommodate you. Most common are barbounia (red mullet), xifias (swordfish), glossa (sole) and lithrini (bream). Marides (whitebait) and sardeles (sardines) are served crisp fried. Why not try psaro-mezeddkia (mixed fish plate) with a little of everything, or for the ultimate luxury order astakos (giant crayfish, also known as the Mediterranean lobster). If you like seafood stewed, try the octopus (htapodi) with white wine, potatoes and tomatoes; or garides (prawns), served with white wine sauce, or sauce mixed with feta cheese.

Meat Fast foods to eat on the run include gyros (thin slices of meat cut from a spit and served with salad on pita bread), or souvlaki (small chunks of meat on a skewer). More formal barbecued dishes may include whole chickens, sides of lamb or stuffed loin of pork, all cooked to a melting perfection. If you want a basic steak look for brizola on the menu. The superb slow-cooked oven dishes and stews are well worth trying. Kleftiko is braised lamb with tomatoes, while stifado is braised beef with onions. Out in the Greek countryside you may also find stewed rabbit, venison and wild boar on menus during the

season. Greece's most famous dish is probably moussaka, successive layers of aubergine and minced lamb with onions topped with a generous layer of bechamel sauce. At its best it should t be firm but succulent, and aromatic with herbs. The best restaurants will make a fresh batch daily. Pastitsio is another layered dish, this time of pasta (macaroni), meat and tomato sauce. Giouvetsi is beef stewed with lozenge-shaped pasta. For those who want a hot meatless dish, gemista are tomatoes, aubergine or peppers stuffed with a delicious rice and vegetable mixture; or try horta, oven-cooked vegetables in a tomato sauce.